Step 1. Print and cut pattern.
After configuring the pattern for your measurements, either through the website or the Seamly2D application you should be left with a pattern looking something like this.
Cut out the pieces and notch them in the locations marked on the pattern. In addition to the pattern’s notches I have added additional notches along the long seams, every 4-5 cm.
Step 2. Prepare sole pieces
As some of the curves are quite tight, and I have a hobby laser cutter, I have cut out the sole sections with a laser cutter, but you can do the same with a rotary cutter. I would though suggest a smaller (e.g. 28mm) rotary cutter .
I’ve chosen 0.4mm black latex for the sole.
Once cut out you should have the following pieces for the two soles. Mark them up carefully to ensure the left and right don’t get confused, and transfer the alignment marks.
Step 3. Prepare leg pieces
Cut out the stocking tops. I’m using 0.4mm latex.
Cut out the leg pieces. I’m using 0.25mm translucent smoky black. I find it useful to use beanbags to hold the pattern piece in place.
Copy all notch information. Ensure you mark them left and right and then add the gluing information. I use the shorthand ‘G’ for glue-this-side (matt), and ‘GR’ for glue-reverse (shiny). On edges that are ‘G’ use longer marks for the alignment notches as otherwise they will be cleaned off when you clean the edge.
Step 4. Assemble the sole
The trickiest part of assembly is the toe section. This is because the curves are quite tight. It is hard to manipulate both pieces of latex accurately enough.
You can see in the picture below that I have created a tool to help me. This is a hand moulded piece of polymorph plastic (I use MultiMorph which you can buy from Amazon). I have covered the polymorph plastic in insulation tape with the sticky side outwards (once you have a turn or two of tape around the plastic this becomes easier). The net result is that you have a curved shape that is tacky.
My tool is similarly shaped to the toe section but is less wide. It is around 1cm wide with a flat section around the curve where we will form the seam.
Get a second colour of tape (mine is blue) and stick this (again tacky side outwards) along the curve of the tool.
Clean the shiny side of the toe piece and manipulate it so that the latex follows the curve of the tool neatly with as even a stretch as you can make.
The picture below shows the reverse side of the tool, once the toe section is stuck to the other side.
Clean and glue the edge of the toe piece. Ensure that you don’t completely lose any of the alignment marks.
Clean and glue the toe curve of the sole piece. I normally advocate cleaning and gluing an entire piece before assembly and the protection of glued surfaces with cling film tape. I’m not doing this here because we’re going to need to manipulate the sole piece quite a lot.
We will however use cling film tape to protect the glued edge on the sole section so that we can control when it is exposed.
Carefully aligning the sole piece to the toe piece, manipulate the latex so that the seam is created with a constant width and correct alignment. This is fiddly, but a lot less fiddly now that one of the pieces of latex is firmly under control. The image below shows the result of joining the sole piece to the toe piece. The are still currently attached to the plastic shape.
Carefully unstick the latex from the insulation tape.
If you are happy with the toe seam then proceed. If not, try again.
Join the heel piece to the sole.
The completed sole piece should now look like this.
Before proceeding with the leg glue the edges of the sole piece and protect with clingfilm tape.
Step 5. Assemble the leg
Clean and glue the stocking top and the top seam of the stocking leg.
Join the stocking top to the stocking leg.
Clean and glue the seams on on the leg piece.
Align the toe seam on the leg with the toe piece. Start joining these at the middle (protect the bits you don’t want to stick with clingfilm tape).
The resultant toe seam.
Flip the stocking over and join the seam up each side of the sole piece.
Work up to the heel on none side and then the other. You must start with the side where the leg piece is glued on the matt side.
Some bits need careful manipulation due to the fairly tight curves. It helps to stretch both pieces so that they are straighter, however ensure that they are stretched equally by observing the alignment marks.
The image below shows the first side sole seam completed to the heel.
We can then join the other side sole seam, when you get to the heel you will see why it is important to do the correct side first.
The image below shows the sole fully attached to the stocking leg.
Continue up from the heel toward the stocking top.
And firmly roller all seams. The seams around the heel are placed under a lot of stress when the stocking is being put on or removed and must be perfect.